All About Chihuahuas

All About Chihuahuas!


Legend and history are rich in tales of the ancestors of the present Chihuahua. He is described as a popular pet, as well as a religious necessity. The Techichi, companion of the ancient Toltecs, is believed to be the progenitor of the Chihuahua. No records of the Techichi are, so far,  available prior to the 9th century, but it is probable his ancestors were present prior to the Mayans. Dogs approximating the Chihuahua  are found in materials from the Pyramids of Cholula, predating 1530 and in the ruins of Chichen Itza on the Yucatan Peninsula. There is little question the Chihuahua’s principle home was present-day Mexico but the breeds immigration to Europe may be the result of the travels of Christopher Columbus. A historical letter written by Columbus to the King of Spain makes reference to the tiny dog. The Chihuahua as we know it today is a much more diminutive dog than its predecessor. It is theorized that the Chinese Crested,  brought from Asia to Alaska across the Bering Strait, was responsible for the reduction in size. Modern Chihuahuas are also found in a myriad of colors. The Chihuahua is an older breed by American Kennel Club standards, first registered in 1904.



Hypoglycemia means low blood sugar. I do not guarantee against low blood sugar so it is up to you to do your research, have a supplement on hand, and most importantly; make sure your new baby is eating and drinking as he/she should be. Hypoglycemia can happen when a puppy goes too long between feedings, has gotten chilled, or is stressed. If your puppy develops this, they will become listless and their little heads may sway from side to side and if they walk, they will stagger and struggle to keep their balance. Maple syrup, honey, or the product Nutri-Cal will restore your pup’s sugar balance. Please…have at least one of these products on hand prior to bringing your puppy home.

Molera or Soft Spot: Your Chihuahua puppy/adult may have a molera which is a “soft spot” on the top of his/her head.  In the Chihuahua this soft spot, or fontanel, is called the Molera; it is also found in human babies.  Historically, this molera was accepted as a mark of purity in the breed, and it is still mentioned in many Chihuahua standards all over the world. If your Chihuahua puppy has a domed head with a molera present it does NOT mean your puppy will be predisposed to hydrocephalus.  Please, search “Molera in the Chihuahua” online and/or read one of the many books available about the Chihuahua breed, and educate yourself about the molera.

General Appearance
A graceful, alert, swift-moving compact little dog with saucy expression, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Weight – A well balanced little dog not to exceed 6 pounds. Proportion – The body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when
measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, than height at the withers. Somewhat shorter bodies are preferred in males.
Disqualification – Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.

A well rounded “apple dome” skull, with or without molera. Expression – Saucy. Eyes – Full, round, but not protruding, balanced,
set well apart-luminous dark or luminous ruby. Light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible. Blue eyes or a difference
in the color of the iris in the two eyes, or two different colors within one iris should be considered a serious fault. Ears – Large, erect
type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a 45 degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears.
Stop – Well defined. When viewed in profile, it forms a near 90 degree angle where muzzle joins skull. Muzzle – Moderately short,
slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean. Nose – Self-colored in blond types, or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored.
In blond types, pink noses permissible. Bite – Level or scissors. Overshot or undershot, or any distortion of the bite or jaw, should
be penalized as a serious fault. A missing tooth or two is permissible. Disqualifications – Broken down or cropped ears.

Chihuahua (Long Coat)

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck – Slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders. Topline – Level. Body – Ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much “barrel-shaped”). Tail – Moderately long, carried sickle either up or out, or in a loop over the back with tip just touching the back.
(Never tucked between legs.) Disqualifications – Docked tail, bobtail.

Shoulders – Lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving free movement at the elbows. Shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back (never down or low). This gives a well developed chest and strength of forequarters. Feet – A small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (Neither the hare nor the cat foot.) Dewclaws may be removed. Pasterns – Strong.

Muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in, well let down, firm and sturdy. Angulation – Should equal that of forequarters. The feet are as in front. Dewclaws may be removed.

In the Smooth Coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close and glossy. (Heavier coats with undercoats permissible.) Coat placed
well over body with ruff on neck preferred, and more scanty on head and ears. Hair on tail preferred furry. In Long Coats, the coat
should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly wavy, with undercoat preferred. Ears – Fringed. Tail – Full and long (as a plume).
Feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs and large ruff on the neck desired and preferred. (The Chihuahua should be groomed
only to create a neat appearance.) Disqualification – In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Any color – Solid, marked or splashed.

The Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action, with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear. From the rear,
the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the foot fall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs. The legs, both front
and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases. The side view shows good, strong drive
in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high. The topline should remain firm and the backline level as the dog moves.

Alert, projecting the ‘terrier-like’ attitudes of self importance, confidence, self-reliance.

Taking care of your new puppy….stress and your new puppy

There are many sources of stress.  Simply moving a puppy to a new home, holding him too much, contending with another pet,
or being allowed too much playtime are just a few of the many sources of stress.  A new puppy is nervous and excited
because they are unfamiliar with their surroundings and their new families which cause a lot of stress.
They are like babies who need regular scheduled time for eating, sleeping, drinking, going to potty and playing.

A quiet place of its own is the most important item to have for a new puppy. It can be a carrier, a cage, a playpen
or a small enclosed area in a quiet room of your home.  The crate serves two purposes.  It will housetrain your pet
and it protects its health and well-being while it grows.  The crate provides a secure, comfortable place where it can rest,
eat, drink and play at his own pace.  The crate should be placed in an area where the temperature stays about the same all the time.

Avoid areas that are drafty, such as under A/C vents.  Provide a comfortable bed in the crate since puppies sleep approximately
90% of the time until they are older.  They will need food and water available to them at all times whether they are in the crate
or out of the crate for their playtime.  This allows them to eat, rest and drink, as they need to so they can grow properly.
Crating the puppy is not punishment, it is protection!  It can in some cases save their life.

Avoid excessive handling.  Too much of this can add stress and overtire the puppy.  A tired puppy will not eat; he only wants to sleep.
Missing a meal can be a life threatening thing with a young, small puppy.  It can lead to a condition called Hypoglycemia.
A puppy can be played with for about 30 minutes at a time at first.  Taking him out for his potty break should begin the playtime.
This schedule for playing can be increased gradually, week by week, as the puppy grows older and becomes stronger.
The rest time should remain the same.  He needs at least 2 hours or more at a time in his crate, undisturbed, for rest.
Giving him the quiet time for rest is a must!

The stress of moving a puppy can sometimes bring on illness.  If you notice any sign of illness before or after the post
examination by a vet, contact the breeder immediately.

Switching foods is not only stressful on a new puppy’s stomach, but so is switching water at times. Do not just assume
your puppy is eating.  The best way to make sure is to put a small handful of dry food on or close to pup’s bed several times a day
and if this disappears you know your puppy is eating something.  You can also soften some dry food with warm water
to entice your puppy to eat until it is adjusted.  A puppy must eat.  We suggest that you buy a gallon of bottled water and
gradually mix it with tap water to let your puppy adjust to it. Stress, new surroundings, a trip to his new home and new food
and water can cause stomach upset and loose stools. After a week your new puppy should feel right at home and do well
with his new family and surroundings.

Remember a puppy has to eat — HAS TOO! — A puppy that doesn’t eat when it is a tiny breed will die.  Nutri-cal / Nutri-Stat are
wonderful for those in-between meal snacks, just a tiny bit keep the blood sugar up and will prevent all kinds of problems.

When in doubt call the breeder of your puppy or your vet.